Diamond cutting

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Part of the series on Diamond
Material
Material propertiesCrystallographic defectsFormation and surfacing
The 4 Cs
Carat ClarityColor Cut
Production
List of minesDiamond cuttingThe diamond industryDe Beers
Cultural impact
History SymbolismFamous diamonds
Imitations and enhancements
Synthetics SimulantsEnhancements
See also
Index of related articlesWikipedia Commons media

Man powered Diamond cutting mill in 18th century
Diamond cutting is the art, skill and, increasingly, science of changing a diamond from a rough stone into a faceted gem. Cutting diamond requires specialized knowledge, tools, equipment, and techniques because of its extreme hardness.
The first guild of diamond cutters and polishers (diamantaire) was formed 1375 in Nuremberg, Germany, and led to the development of various types of 'Cut'. This has two meanings in relation to diamonds. The first is the shape: round, oval and so on. The second relates to the specific quality of cut within the shape, and the quality and price will vary greatly based on the cut quality. Since diamonds are very hard to cut, special diamond bladed edges are used to cut them. The first major development in diamond cutting came with the "Point Cut" during the latter half of the 14th century. The Point Cut follows the natural shape of an octahedron shaped raw diamond, eliminating waste in the cutting process.

Diamond cutting process
The diamond cutting process includes these steps; planning, cleaving or sawing, bruting, polishing, and final inspection.
Planning
Diamond manufacturers analyze diamond rough from an economic perspective, with two objectives steering decisions made about how a faceted diamond will be cut. The first objective is that of maximum return on investment for the piece of diamond rough. The second is how quickly the finished diamond can be sold. Scanning devices are used to get 3-dimensional computer model of the rough stone. Also, inclusions are photographed and placed on the 3D model, which is then used to find an optimal way to cut the stone.
Maximizing Value
The process of maximizing the value of finished diamonds, from a rough diamond into a polished gemstone, is both an art and a science. The choice of cut is influenced by many factors. Market factors include the exponential increase in value of diamonds as weight increases, referred to as weight retention, and the popularity of certain shapes amongst consumers. Physical factors include the original shape of the rough stone, and location of the inclusions and flaws to be eliminated.
Weight retention
The weight retention analysis studies the diamond rough to find the best combination of finished stones as it relates to per carat value. For instance a 2.20 carat (440 mg) octahedron may produce either two half carat (100 mg) diamonds whose combined value may be higher than that of a 0.80 carat (160 mg) diamond and 0.30 carat (60 mg) diamond that could be cut from the same rough diamond.
The round brilliant cut and square brilliant cuts are preferred when the crystal is an octahedron, as often two stones may be cut from one such crystal. Oddly shaped crystals, such as macles are more likely to be cut in a fancy cuthat is, a cut other than the round brillianthich the particular crystal shape lends itself to.

An uncut diamond does not show its prized optical properties
Even with modern techniques, the cutting and polishing of a diamond crystal always results in a dramatic loss of weight; rarely is it less than 50%.[citation needed] Sometimes the cutters compromise and accept lesser proportions and symmetry in order to avoid inclusions or to preserve the weight. Since the per-carat price of a diamond shifts around key milestones (such as 1.00 carat), many one-carat (200 mg) diamonds are the result of compromising Cut quality for Carat weight. Some jewelry experts advise consumers to buy a 0.99 carat (198 mg) diamond for its better price or buy a 1.10 carat (220 mg) diamond for its better cut, avoiding a 1.00 carat (200 mg) diamond, which is more likely to be a poorly cut stone.
Color retention
In colored diamonds, cutting can influence the color grade of the diamond, thereby raising its value. Certain cut shapes are used to intensify the color of the diamond. The radiant cut is an example of this type of cut.
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